Mukhallat Zubeda By Francois Harera Aromatics Concentrated Oil Classic Odour/AS

Perfume in Western cultures

Perfumery art experienced a huge progress in the Renaissance thanks to increased knowledge in the chemical field and the improvement of distillation techniques. Essences and aromatized waters were used as a cure for some diseases, but their main purpose was to perfume the body, environments and also leather accessories such as gloves and belts. The discovery of the New World and the India Way brought to Europe vanilla, cocoa, cinnamon and ginger.

These precious commodities, in addition to the ones already available in the Mediterranean area, were used by Spanish and Italian perfumers, who soon began to move to France as well.


Early Perfumery European

In particular, Italian perfumers spread to France thpersonal fragrances trend. In Venice, in the meantime, a thriving trade of precious spices and aromas had developed, which soon made Italy the leading destination for luxury perfume.

It is reported that at the end of 1600 the peddler Giovanni Paolo Feminis invented “Aqua Mirabilis”, a drinkable water believed to be able to heal from any disease. After moving to Cologne, he began to produce and trade this renowned perfume based on over 20 different essences with the name of “Cologne Water”. After a few this product began to spread to France and throughout Europe as “Eau de Cologne” and was used as a tonic and perfume.

During 1700 in France the production of perfumed leather accessories such as footwear, gloves and belts is a growing business. The most appreciated essences for this use were pink, tuberous and jasmine.


Perfume Factory, 19th Century. – Source Science Source

In this era, a new “smell perception” is born, and it’s more delicate and natural. People began to be more keen to hygiene. This trend can be easily found both with the creation of rooms dedicated to toilet and bathroom, as well as the general preference of delicate and refined floral fragrances, such as those made in Grasse and throughout France. People began to focus on seduction and ostentation, which brought to the growth of elegant glass bottles for perfumes, candy boxes, fancy pommander and pot pourri to spread ambient perfumes.

Finally, the invention of artificial soda allowed to greatly improve the quality of solid soaps. These perfumery’s products used to be made by chemical reaction of natural soda and olive oil, and were produced in the major Mediterranean ports such as Genoa, Savona, Venice and Marseille. In 1800 the Italian fragrance trading, confined up to then into the back of the barberies, went through some large Perfume Stores such as Bertelli in Milan, Paglieri in Alessandria and Puglisi & Manara in Palermo.

At the beginning of the 19th century, after the French Revolution, French society devoted itself to an unbridled luxury that made Paris a fashion international capital. Thanks to the trading’s liberalization, a very profitable period of production of perfume began, loved by either the emperors and ordinary people.


Early Perfumes Vanity Bottles
In the history of perfume appears the names of boutiques and maison perfumers still known today, such as Guerlain, Bourjous, Roger & Gallet and Molinard, which often supplied personally royals and emperors.

Furthermore, chemical discoveries lead to the synthesis of particular perfume molecules that will enable the creation of innovative and high quality fragrances. The intense and sensual scents were based on musk, patchouli or heliotropic, while the floral waters based on rose, jasmine or lily were more delicate. Moreover, big brands began to create cosmetics lines for theater and women’s toilets.

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